Christophe Claret becomes more and more a watch brand. But Christophe Claret is also still developing and delivering complicated calibres to renowned clients of the industry. Discover the stunning Christophe Claret watches Maestoso, Poker and Margot…
Today I will not tell you who are Claret´s illustrious clients, but I will show you some of Claret´s new watches… 🙂
On the following pages you will then discover the new Christophe Claret Maestoso, Christophe Claret Poker and Christophe Claret Margot.
Let us start right away with the new Christophe Claret Maestoso…
Maestoso is one of the few watchmaking creations today to be equipped with a cylindrical balance-spring.
The watch’ detent escapement first appeared in the 18th century, at a time when watchmakers were competing to create a time-measuring instrument of maximum precision, to be used to determine a ship’s exact geographical position at sea. Regarded as the quintessence of chronometric precision, even ahead of the tourbillon, this historic escapement is traditionally equipped with a laminated gold blade spring. Christophe Claret has made sure to adhere to these specifications to the finest detail. At the time, it was found primarily in marine chronometers, mounted on gimbals to ensure an invariable position. Though it demonstrated exemplary reliability, it actually had the weakness of being particularly sensitive to lateral impacts. Shocks to a detent escapement can cause it to stop or even release the escape wheel and break. Another danger is over-banking, in which an external shock can cause the balance wheel to oscillate with excess amplitude, i.e. more than 360°, causing a second impulse. This can speed up the escapement wheel and disrupt timing.
Enabling the mechanism to operate in all the positions that wearing a wristwatch entails was the quest.
To prevent the detent from turning over, an anti-pivot cam, integral to the spring balance, works in conjunction with the safety finger. The ensemble is fitted between a main-plate and two sapphire bridges, and pivots on a ball bearing – a patented mechanism – that distributes the load on the escapement. So it absorbs the impacts by means of a spring that provides the requisite flexibility.
The upper bridge, crafted from sapphire crystal, allows the intrinsic beauty of the mechanism to be fully appreciated.
To cope with the risks of over-banking, a flexible thrust bearing fitted on the wheel and connected to the balance absorbs any excess energy. Christophe Claret has also endowed the watch with a constant force, guaranteeing stable energy and amplitude throughout the power reserve. Thus the constant force spring, wound up by the barrel, always releases the same energy at regular intervals, making the torque to the escapement more constant. Finally, a stop seconds, another patented device, also plays an essential role by stopping the balance when setting the time.
A micrometric worm screw on the regulator, also patented, is used to regulate the timing rate. Visible at 8 o’clock, the mechanism combines performance with design. Last and not least, Maestoso is equipped with two mainspring barrels, each with two superimposed springs transmitting force to the regulator and providing an optimal power reserve of more than 80 hours.
Caliber: DTC07, mechanical hand-wound
Diameter: 31 mm
Height: (without hands) 8.60 mm
Number of components: 301
Number of jewels: 44
Power reserve: 80+ hours
Four barrels fitted in parallel
– Detent in grade 5 titanium
– Frequency: 2 Hz (14,400 A/h)
– Balance with gold screw
– Cylindrical balance-spring
– Anti-over-banking security device
– Escapement mounted on a shock-absorbing bridge
– Balance stop system activated by pulling the crown
– Regulator with micrometric adjustment via curved staff
– Hour and minute display
– Constant force at 4 o’clock
Charles X style skeletonized stepped bridges
Dimensions: 44 x 52.11 x 13.59 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
White gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium (polished / satin-finished)
Red ruby and black PVD-treated hand with
White gold and anthracite PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with black PVD-treated titanium cabochon
Black alligator and black stitching
ADLC-treated stainless steel, anthracite PVD-treated titanium caps, white gold Christophe Claret logo
Black rhodium-plated nickel silver with shiny white lacquer
Christophe Claret logo and indexes in rhodium-plated brass, with lacquer
20-piece limited series.
Prices starting at: 178.000 CHF excluding VAT
And now let me show you a punch of photos I took from both versions highlighting various details of the watch. Just enlarge my photos and you will see on what I focused…