The watch with Instant Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute is equipped with the manual-winding mechanical movement Calibre 1, Chanel´s first in-house high-watchmaking movement.
The Calibre 1 which offers a double complication, took five years to develop. The manual-winding mechanical movement made up of 170 components is a movement with integrated complications, meaning that the complications are integrated into the bottom plate and are not simply modules attached to a base. Chanel told me: “It all started with a desire, a vision, and a drawing. This watch did not exist before, it was dreamt up. Its movement did not exist before. It was designed to bring it alive. Its watchcase did not exist before either. It was created to house it.”
This is a slow-motion video, so please be patient … The jump of the hour hand and disc will occur after 30 seconds …
The Instant Jumping Hour, required the full mastery of micro-shocks and the energy consumption caused by the passage of the aluminium hour disc. With two barrels mounted in series, the power reserve of the watch is 3 days.
The second watchmaking prowess, the retrograde minute with a 240°-display on the dial (by the way, that´s quite rare), combined both rigorous aesthetics and technical performance. The retrograde minute’s bidirectional corrector allows easy adjustment of the watch and illustrates one of the key elements of the Chanel fine watchmaking vision.
Calibre 1 multiplies the references to the strong codes of the House Chanel. Matt and glossy black predominate in its black architectural movement in ADLC (Amorphous Diamond Like Carbon). The trim emphasizes all the curves of its bottom plate and bridges. A number of custom-made parts serve as a reminder of the octagonal shape of Place Vendome in Paris, where Chanel´s flagship boutique is located.
Chanel chose the lion, its most masculine emblem and a symbol of strength and power, as the signature of the watch which is found on its buckle and crown.
In 2016, 300 numbered movements will be produced of which 150 are for the Monsieur de Chanel watch in “beige gold” (a Chanel gold alloy) and 150 for the white gold model.
Heure sautante instantanée minute rétrograde
First in-house manual-winding mechanical movement with two integrated complications: instant jumping hour and minute retrograde on 240°
170 components; 30 rubies; Frequency: 28.800 A/h (4Hz); 2 fixed barrels in series, spring torque 700 g.mm; Anti-shock system to protect balance
Movement diameter: 32 mm or 14’’’3/4
Movement thickness: 5.5 mm
The watches are numbered editions …
40 mm diameter – 10.4 mm thickness
18 carat “beige gold” case and crown
Ivory opaline dial with retrograde minute counter, jumping hour window and small seconds counter
18 carat “beige gold” plated hands
22 mm black alligator strap
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
3-day power reserve
Water resistance: 30 meters
Gold weight: 48.80 g
This again is a slow-motion video, so please be patient … The several jumps of the hour hand and disc will occur one after the other after a short while …
>>> On page 2 I invite you to see 19 first live taken pictures of the new Chanel Monsieur de Chanel watch >>>