I am back in Vienna. Yesterday I was reporting live with my iPhone from the launch-event in Berlin and I posted some pictures taken with it. Let us now see some professionally made pictures …
I was very much surprised when I saw the Glashütte Original Pavonina yesterday. I did not expect to see such a watch! I only knew Glashütte Original would present a new ladies watch collection…
I really had fun discovering the new watches since they are definitively no mainstream. They are absolutely in line with the brands philosophy, reflecting the history of women’s watches made in Glashütte.
Already in 1927 the Glashütte-based company Urofa began making wristwatches, which were initially designed exclusively for women. Faced with the demand for delicate, feminine watches to be worn on the wrist, the watchmakers began to make much smaller movements. Soon a tradition had been established that called for the manufacture of special ladies’ wristwatches, many years before the production of men’s wristwatches began. In the 1960s and 70s, the demand on the part of women for precise and fashionable timepieces had, once again, a significant impact on watch production in Glashütte. In time, wristwatches for women came increasingly to be seen as a combination of jewelry and a useful way to tell time. As a rule, a lady owns a number of watches, after all, to be worn as jewelry and chosen to suit a particular outfit and occasion. At the end of the 1970s, the company VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe, which had absorbed Urofa and a number of other companies, began making ladies’ wristwatches equipped with quartz movements; they were easy to take care of and use, and were both comfortable and affordable.
Representatives of Glashütte Original told me yesterday that “with the launch of a new collection of Pavonina ladies watches with quartz movements we renew a tradition that is respectful of women’s desire for smaller, easier to handle timepieces with more elegant cases.”
The Calibre “03-01” quartz movement bases on ETA technology, but was developed in Glashütte. All the moving parts, the plate and the bridges are produced in Glashütte. The plate is decorated with the characteristic Glashütte striping, and the engraved logo appears in gold on the silver plate.
Everything else would have been a surprise! Glashütte Original belongs to the Swatch Group so they of course have full access to all developments of ETA. This is an innovative feature of the calibre “03-01”: It offers three times the standard magnetic protection, shielding the sensitive mechanism from the influence of modern mobile electronic devices and thus enhancing the quality of the watch.
The eye-catching form of the Pavonina collection case dates back to the 1920s, when the distinctive „cushion“ shape was widely used with wristwatches, which had become very fashionable. Glashütte Original’s designers reworked the form slightly, adapting it to suit the contemporary woman and integrating flexible lugs in the case. The Saxon watchmaker has applied for a patent for this solution, which allows a perfectly snug fit between the watch and the wrist of the woman wearing it. These graceful, 31 x 31 mm timepieces are offered in three different versions of the case: in coolly brilliant stainless steel, contemporary bi-color combining stainless steel and red gold, and a warm, radiant 18 ct red gold.
Rich in fascinating detail, the dials of the Pavonina collection are crafted in an elaborate, sophisticated process by the company’s own dial manufactory. From minimalist elegance to delicate, shimmering mother of pearl and glamorous motifs set out in diamonds, they reflect the brilliant, facetted diversity of women.
I personally like the new ladies collection, but I think the more decorated the Pavonina is the better it looks. For me the pure steel and gold Pavonina versions are even a little too much understated, very puristic; I think they could be a little more feminine. But this is just my very personal opinion.
So for me the wonderful, elaborately decorated watch is the absolute highlight of the Pavonina collection: presented as a stylized peacock tail are an array of 98 diamonds, 0.38 carats in all, carefully set by hand on the precisely milled, mocca brown- or mother of pearl-colored Colorit dial. Along the softly flowing flanks of the case are a further 114 radiant diamonds in the form of an open circle, while the ornate crown is topped with a 0.03 ct diamond.