SIHH 2014 – My top five sport watches

I invite you to discover my top five watches in three categories. Today I want to show you my sporty choice… 

In the next days I will then unveil my favourite SIHH-watches by category design, innovation and, on top of it, my number one watch of the SIHH 2014 in Geneva.

Today I present you my five ticking sports ace in alphabetic order. So what you see is NOT a ranking!

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 42 mm

Guys, you my call me an idiot or think I probably have no taste, but I simply love this new, blue Royal Oak. Absolutely stunning, vibrant! It perfectly fits to my preferred habiliments: Blue (I mean the colour bleu) Jeans & classy Etro-shirts.

The only small downer is the fact that the watch still has no integrated chronograph calibre. It is still powered by the AP-in-house calibre 3120 on which a Dubois Dépraz chronograph-module is mounted. Please listen to my interview with AP-CEO François-Henry Bennahmias to learn more about the integrated chronograph calibre developement …

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak  Offshore Chronograph 42 mm
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42 mm
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak  Offshore Chronograph 42 mm
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42 mm

 

Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver

I like Cartier´s approach to the watch. Everything Cartier claims is proven by a technical industry standard. That´s not a gimmick watch for snobby landlubbers to impress its vis-à-vis after hours whilst sipping a Mojito. That’s an elegant Cartier 4×4 ready for underwater adventures and rough terrain. In-between you and me: I personally would go for the steel version, even when  I show you the 18-carat pink gold one here …

 

Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver.
Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver
Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver.
Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver

 

 IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000

This is not only a fascinating timepiece due to its opulent history at IWC. The newest Aquatimer Automatic 2000 is also the first one to be powered by an IWC-in-house calibre. The huge watch looks good when worn to a casual outfit and due to its size it provides perfect readability under water. In my eyes one of the best deals for a diver that wants to own a real cool watch!

 

IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000
IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000
IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000
IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic

Since invented by the manufacture I like this huge “Compressor” crown. It ads a very technical look to each watch where it is used. The combination of this deep black high-tech ceramic with the push pieces and the crown looks fabulous. Very useful for me is the second zone-time function executed by a second hour hand that one can set independently to the principle hour hand. That watch is perfect companion to explore the unknown, wherever it might be…

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic

 

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Oro Bianco – 45mm 

What a watch!! The fusion of the historic Minerva 13-22 calibre (aka Panerai OPXXV calibre) with the Radiomir 1940 case is simply mind-blowing. The finishing of the chronograph calibre is at highest possible level. Especially in white gold you wear pure understatement on the wrist. Only connoisseurs will know what’s under the dial of this Panerai.

But still I have to make one critical remark: Since I was the very first journalist to see the three new Panerai Radiomir 1940 chronographs I noticed that the drawing of the divisions of one second each, depending on the oscillating-frequency of the balance subdivided into fifths (18.000 A/h)/sixths (21.600 A/h)/eights (28.800 A/h) or tenths (36.000 A/h), that are engraved around the edge of the dial, is wrong on the chronographs shown at the SIHH and in the official SIHH-press-kit. The Minerva beats at 18.000 A/h or 1/5th of a second and the division on the dial is printed for 28.800 A/h or 1/8th of a second. After explaining why, the Panerai-team had to admit that this was wrong and CEO Angelo Bonati gave the order to change all the dials before delivery of the watches. So if you haven listened already to my interview with CEO Angelo Bonati on my blog you now know why at the end of the interview Bonati says I´ll get a bottle of champagne.

Let me come back to the watch: Apart from this flaw the chronograph is a must have if you can afford one. Go for it! Anyhow you´ll get a version with the correct divisions of one second each now. Call me a pedant if you wish, but the correct execution of every little detail is a must for a watch that costs almost 50.000 Euro including 19 VAT …

 

RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRAPH ORO BIANCO - 45mm
RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRAPH ORO BIANCO – 45mm
RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRAPH ORO BIANCO - 45mm
RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRAPH ORO BIANCO – 45mm

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More from Alexander Linz

Baselworld 2016: Interview with Walter von Känel, President Longines

What you will hear when you listen to this interview is a...
Read More

13 Comments

  • Alexander, the Panerai with minerva is indeed a great watch but I do have 2 remarks.
    You said the finishing is about the highest possible … Did you see the Montblanc with the same ‘ but for sure even much better finished ‘ movement. And do you know the MB costs euro 20K less ?
    Or what about a Lange 1815 chromo ? No doubt Lange is much better finished and the superior watch. But since when did Richemont decide a Panerai is more expensive than a Lange ??
    I really like the watch…. A LOT! But at euro 47 K this is just wrong. Great watch and great movement but at least 30% too expensive. In this case I have the feeling Panerai fools their clients and want’s to try how far they can go. How insane are our fans, will they just pay any amount ?

    • Bruno, I can not disagree since what you write is true. But the Chrono is sold out twice … Panerai could have sold at least the double quantity. You have to accept, that Panerai has no rules, you like it or you leave it, you buy it or you leave it. I like the Panerai Chrono but I also like the Montblanc the Lange… They are all beautiful ticking babies … 🙂

  • Glad to know Panerai listened and corrected the problem. You’re absolutely correct; at that price point everything needs to be as close to perfect as possible. Sort of reminds me of the NASA Mars probe that was lost a few years ago as one group worked in imperial and the other in metric.

    Otherwise, I really like the Cartier.

  • A neat choice, Alex!
    Maybe worth to mention that price tags for these watches start from 6’500 € for the Cartier Diver in steel to 50’000 € for the Panerai Radiomir.
    In this perspective, it is interesting to note that no watch from Richard Mille made it on your list. I am thinking, for example, of the Sebastien Loeb and Romain Grosjean G-sensor watches…

  • The AP is great for me and may correct the weakness of previous range; it just look perfect!
    The Cartier is not bad at all !
    I’m so so for the JLC and IWC and no way for the Panerai, even if the movement looks great!
    Then it really depends the use of it Diving only or day’s job too!
    AP would be the choice!
    thanks

    • I agree with you with the Panerai
      No way dude even if I am a great Panerai fan
      alex
      ps my winner would be AP and JLC in pole position

  • Again, I think that Cartier hit the right spot this time. A perfect balance between a diver-sport-elegant watch. If the caliber is good enough than – what can you want more…

  • Great story regarding the Panerai. I’m glad these guys are listening to you!

    I find myself coming back to the Aquatimer as my favorite from the list. I like its details. And it’s the first Aquatimer that has really impacted me.

Comments are closed.